Dictionary of Hair Terms

How to Speak Stylist So You Can Get Hair Results You'll Love

When you're trying to explain what you'd like to do with your hair, sometimes it's hard to find the right words to get your ideas across. Here's a dictionary of hair terms stylists throw around, and what they mean.

1. Ashy, ash tones, ash colors — "Ash" refers to tones that are cool, like grey, green, silver, taupe, etc. The opposite of warm. When unwanted orange and yellow tones are showing in the hair, the hair needs to be further lightened, or colored darker to correct.
2. A-line — A shape that is shorter in the back and longer in the front.
3. Bob — A one-length shape that does not touch the shoulders. Once it hits the body it no longer "bobs"—it's simply a one-length haircut.
4. Brassy — When unwanted orange and yellow tones are showing in the hair. The hair needs to be further lightened, or colored darker to correct.
5. Coarse hair — Hair where each individual hair is thick in diameter. It can be dense or sparse, curly or straight.
6. Demi-permanent color — Permanent color without ammonia, which therefore cannot lighten, only deposit. Lasts as long as permanent color.
7. Double process color — The process of lightening hair, and then toning it to the desired shade in a second step.
8. Fine hair — Each individual hair is thin in diameter. Fine hair can be curly or straight, dense or sparse. Curly hair is generally fine.
9. Graduation — When the hair is cut to build weight as it goes up, like a stacked bob or a wedge.
10. Highlights — Lighter pieces of hair added to create dimension, either hand-painted or applied in foil.
11. Lightener — The preferred term for bleach.
12. Lowlights — Darker pieces of hair added to create dimension, usually as part of a highlighting service, but sometimes by itself.
13. One length — When all the hair is combed down and cut to the same level, as in a bob.
14. Permanent color — Color that can lighten the natural hair color. Ironically not actually permanent.
15. Pixie cut — A very short cut, similar length all over, with soft edges for femininity. Popularized in the sixties, and still a hit.
16. Regrowth — Roots, which should be addressed.
17. Round — When referring to a haircut outline, a shape that is shorter in the front and longer in the back.
18. Shag — A very layered cut with a short top and longer sides and back. Think Rod Stewart or Barbarella.
19. Single process color — All-over color, done in one step. May be done with permanent or demi-permanent color depending on the desired result.
20. Texturizing — Cutting shorter lengths into the longer lengths to remove bulk, add texture, or add body to the hair. The techniques vary according to the desired result.
21. Toner — A sheer color applied to pre-lightened hair to add the desired tone. Sometimes referred to as a gloss or a glaze. Toners are simply demi-permanent colors.

Knowing the terms stylists use can be a big help in making sure you get the look you want. If you're unsure about something your stylist or colorist is saying, ask them to explain. They can usually describe what they're talking about in an easy-to-understand way, or show you a picture of an example.

Ask your stylist, or call (480) 607-6544—we'll translate any jargon into the cut or color you actually want.