Short Hair Specialist Shares Expert Tips

Short Hair Specialist Shares Expert Tips

Whether you're going short for the first time or looking for a new short style, short hair requires an expert's hand and an expert's eye to pull it off right. A shorter cut can be dramatic and spectacular—or it can be a boring one-way trip to old-city. I sat down with Frank Hathaway, a short-hair specialist and style director at David Frank Salon in Scottsdale, to ask him about his special approach to short cuts.

D: You're a big fan of shorter hairstyles on women. What's the attraction for you?

Frank: Simply put, when you have longer hair, people tend to see the hair and not the person wearing it. You have hair. With short and mid-length hair, you have a hairstyle. There's a huge difference. Shorter shapes allow you to accentuate the face and head shape in ways that just aren't possible with long hair. The shape becomes very unique and personal.

D: Short hair gets a bad rap sometimes. Why do you think that is?

Frank: (Laughs) Because it's done badly so often! To a lot of hairdressers, a short haircut is a quick thing—just get rid of the hair. Short hair requires much more skill than long hair. You have to be a great cutter to do it well.

D: You think a lot of stylists aren't good with short hair?

Frank: If you don't understand head shape and hair texture, short hair is going to show it off. Long hair is very forgiving. With a short cut, what you see is what you will be wearing for the next five weeks.

D: Is there a difference in cutting long hair?

Frank: Short hair is more about the shape. Long hair is a bit more about the styling.

D: Can anybody wear their hair short?

Frank: Most can, but some women need more of a mid-length shape. Cuts are about the size of the shape, not just the length of the hair.

D: Is it true most men prefer long hair?

Frank: Absolutely not. I just read a study, in fact, that showed men prefer mid-length and shorter shapes over long hair.

D: So why do many women shy away from short hair?

Frank: It's a big step for them, and they are afraid of not getting a great look. You have to work with a stylist who can help them find what's going to work for them.

D: How do you approach a shorter shape?

Frank: First I look carefully at the guest's features, get a feel for what silhouette is going to look best. I move the hair around and arrange it in different ways to see what it does to the face shape. It has to balance with the body as well. I also look at the natural movement of the hair to see what it's going to do when it's cut.

D: What makes your haircuts different from others?

Frank: Several things. First, I always seek out one feature to make the shape unique and personal. It could be a bit of disconnection, or some asymmetry—just something to make it one of a kind. Then, I use a cutting technique that allows me to duplicate the shape any time the guest wishes. I train my staff to use the same technique. It gives us the ability to be completely consistent. You get the results you want each and every time. I also have a unique approach to texture that makes the hair perform amazingly well with minimal effort.

D: What about razor cutting?

Frank: I don't believe any one tool is right for every job. I've mastered the art of razor cutting, but lately I find I can do most of what I want to accomplish with shears. I never work with clippers, though.

D: Whose short styles are inspiring you right now?

Frank: Charlize Theron, Ginnifer Goodwin, Pink, Beyoncé, Emma Watson, and a bunch more I can't even think of right now. There are so many great shorter shapes right now. I just saw a great picture of Rooney Mara in Vogue—fantastic.

D: Should you cut your hair when you reach a certain age?

Frank: No. At any age, you should wear what makes you look and feel like the best version of yourself. Isn't that what it's all about?